Why is my RV AC compressor running but not cooling?
A running compressor that won't cool almost always points to one of two things: a weak start capacitor or a low refrigerant charge. The start capacitor gives the compressor the extra kick it needs to get through the compression stroke under load - without it, the motor spins but never builds enough pressure to move refrigerant through the system.
We test capacitors first with a multimeter because it's a five-minute check, and a bad cap is the cheaper fix at $150-$300. If the capacitor tests good, we connect a manifold gauge set to read suction and discharge pressures, which tells us whether you have a low charge and whether there's a leak driving it.
A recharge with leak repair runs $400-$700 depending on how much refrigerant is needed and where the leak is - common spots are the Schrader valves, the evaporator coil, and the line fittings at the rooftop unit. If you let a low charge go, the compressor eventually overheats and seizes, turning a $500 repair into a full unit replacement.
Can you replace my rooftop AC with a different brand than what's already up there?
Yes, brand swaps are straightforward in most cases because the 14x14-inch roof opening is industry-standard across nearly all rooftop AC units. We commonly swap Coleman-Mach to Dometic, Dometic to Houghton, or upgrade an older cool-only unit to a heat-pump model when a customer wants to cut down on propane use.
The job includes removing the old unit, inspecting the roof deck for soft spots or delamination around the opening, setting the new unit with a fresh gasket, running any required ductwork adapters, and resealing the flange with Dicor lap sealant before we test the system. Total cost with parts and labor runs $1,200-$2,400 depending on BTU rating and whether you go heat-pump or cool-only. If the roof deck has water damage around the old unit's footprint, we address that before the new unit goes down - skipping it is how you end up with the same leak problem under a brand-new AC.
How long does a rooftop AC replacement actually take?
Most rooftop AC replacements run four to six hours of on-site work once the unit arrives. The sequence goes: old unit removal, thorough scrape of the old gasket from the roof deck, new unit set and seated, ductwork adapter fitted and checked for gaps, electrical hookup tested at the breaker, a full run cycle to confirm cooling output and drain function, then Dicor lap sealant around the entire bezel perimeter.
Lead time on the unit itself is typically 3-5 business days, and we coordinate the install appointment around your travel schedule so the rig isn't sitting without cooling in peak heat. If we find a soft spot in the roof deck around the existing cutout once we pull the old unit, that's a separate repair we'll walk you through before proceeding - ignoring it means water tracks into the ceiling structure every time it rains.
My furnace clicks but won't ignite. What's wrong?
A furnace that clicks but won't light is almost always one of three things: a failed ignition control board, a stuck sail switch (the airflow safety that confirms the blower is moving enough air before allowing gas to flow), or a dirty or cracked flame sensor. The board is the culprit roughly eight times out of ten.
On-site, we work through them in sequence - meter the sail switch first since it's the easiest to rule out, then check the limit switch for an overheat trip, then test board output voltage. Suburban and Atwood boards run $180-$290 in parts; total repair lands $300-$600 with two to three hours on-site. If the board and switches test good, the next place we look is the gas valve itself or a partially blocked burner tube, either of which can produce the same click-no-ignite symptom and will add time and parts to the call.
Are you cheaper than my RV dealer for AC and heating work?
Usually 30-40% cheaper, and the gap comes from structure, not corners cut. Dealers carry service-bay rent, service writers, finance departments, and shop supply fees that get buried in your invoice.
We run mobile-flat-rate pricing, so you pay for the repair, not our drive time or the half-hour we spend diagnosing before we know what part you need. A capacitor swap that runs $450 at the dealer is typically $220 with us - same OEM part, same warranty terms.
Where you'll see the difference most clearly is on common jobs like capacitor replacements, contactor swaps, and thermostat installs. The one area where dealers may be competitive is warranty recall work tied to a specific brand service bulletin, which we'd flag during diagnosis if it applies to your rig.
Do you service RVs parked outside our covered metros?
Direct service is our covered metros only. Outside those states, we route work through a vetted nationwide partner network - many of our techs hold RVIA and RVDA certifications, and the rest bring years of hands-on RV repair experience.
When you contact us with your ZIP code, we can tell you quickly whether you're in a direct-service area or whether we're bringing in a partner tech. Either way, the diagnostic process is the same: the tech comes to your location, assesses the AC or heating system on-site, and walks you through findings before any work starts. Pricing structure and warranty terms carry over to partner jobs, so you're not taking on extra risk just because you're parked outside our home regions.
What's a soft-start, and do I really need one for my RV AC?
A soft-start is an electronic module that mounts at the AC unit and ramps the compressor up to full speed gradually instead of hitting it with full inrush current all at once. That inrush spike on a standard RV air conditioner runs roughly 60 amps for a fraction of a second - enough to trip a breaker, overload a generator, or cause a brownout that damages other electronics in the rig.
A soft-start brings that startup draw down to under 20 amps, which is what makes the difference between your AC running and your breaker popping. If you boondock on a 3,000-watt generator, share a 30-amp pedestal that's already carrying a load, or want to run two AC units on a 50-amp service without conflicts, a soft-start moves from a nice upgrade to a practical necessity. SoftStartRV and Micro-Air are the two units we install most often, and the job typically takes under an hour - we mount the module, wire it into the compressor leads, and test startup current before we leave.
Can you install a heat pump on my older RV that only has a furnace?
Yes. We pull the existing rooftop AC unit, inspect the roof deck and curb for soft spots or rot before the new unit goes on, then set either a Dometic Penguin II or a Houghton 9.3kW heat-pump unit depending on your rig's BTU needs and roof curb dimensions.
Once it's mounted and sealed, we wire it into your existing thermostat or upgrade the thermostat if your current one isn't heat-pump compatible. The heat pump handles cooling in summer and supplemental electric heat down to around 40°F - below that, efficiency drops and your propane furnace takes over, which is why we leave it in place rather than remove it.
Plan on a full day of on-site work and a 3-5 day lead time to source the unit. Total cost runs $1,800-$2,400 depending on which unit fits your rig and whether the thermostat needs replacing.
How does Florida heat and humidity affect RV AC longevity?
Florida heat and humidity puts RV air conditioners under stress that dry-climate rigs never see. The compressor runs longer duty cycles to pull indoor temps down against 95-degree ambient heat, which shortens compressor life.
Salt air on the Treasure Coast works into coil fins and aluminum casings through microscopic pitting that turns into corrosion over two or three seasons if the fins aren't cleaned and treated. Humidity gives the evaporator coil a steady condensate load, and that moisture feeds a biofilm in the drain pan and drip rails that eventually blocks drainage and forces water into the ceiling. We coil-clean annually using a no-rinse evaporator cleaner, clear the drain path, and apply a fin treatment on coastal rigs - a straightforward service that realistically extends unit life by three to five years compared to leaving it unserviced.
What warranty do I get after you fix my AC or furnace?
All labor we perform carries a 90-day workmanship warranty. If a capacitor, contactor, or any other component we installed fails within that window, we return and replace it at no charge - parts and labor.
Manufacturer warranties run separately: typically one year on Dometic and Coleman-Mach components, two years on Houghton. We register each part in your name at the time of install and document the job with photos and serial numbers, so the coverage follows the rig if you sell it. That documentation also matters for warranty claims - manufacturers require proof of professional installation and a record of the failed component's serial number, and we have that ready if you need it.
