How much does a water heater swap cost for a typical RV?
An Atwood to Dometic swap runs $1,100-$1,600 including removal, disposal, the new unit, install hardware, and a pressure flush of the lines once the unit is set. The variance comes from heater size (6-gallon vs 10-gallon), whether we're upgrading you to a different brand, and whether the bypass valves and anode rod need replacing while we have the lines open.
We quote flat-rate by phone after a few questions about your rig and current setup, so the number on the invoice matches the number you heard. If we find rot in the wood frame around the heater bay during teardown, that adds to the total for a frame patch - we call you before continuing so there are no surprises.
Can you get to my RV in an emergency if I'm stranded?
In our core our covered metros service areas, we target a 2-4 hour response for emergency calls - a burst pipe, a water heater leak flooding a cabinet, or a pump failure that leaves you without water are all situations we treat as urgent. When you call, we ask a few quick questions to understand what's actively leaking or failing so we know exactly what parts and fittings to pull from the truck before we roll.
Outside those two regions, we dispatch through our nationwide certified-tech partner network, which covers most of the country. Coverage and response time vary by location, so confirm your area when you call. In the meantime, if water is actively coming in, shut your main water valve and cut power to the water heater to prevent dry-fire damage while you wait.
What does pressure testing actually find that I can't see?
Pressure testing at 60 PSI reveals micro-cracks, pinhole corrosion, and loose push-fit fittings that won't drip at the trickle pressure of a campground hookup but will fail the moment you run two fixtures at once or your pump cycles hard. The damage we find most often is in PEX runs behind interior walls, under holding tanks, and in the belly pan - spots where road vibration works connections loose and UV degradation softens the line over time without any visible sign on the surface.
On-site, we charge the system, isolate sections with shutoffs, and watch a calibrated gauge for pressure drop over several minutes to pinpoint exactly which zone is losing integrity before we ever open a wall. Catching a pinhole now costs far less than pulling soaked cabinets or subfloor after a fitting lets go at 2 a.m.
Will you install a different brand water heater than what I have?
Yes, we install replacement water heaters across brands regardless of what came from the factory. If your Atwood has failed, a Dometic is often a practical same-price upgrade, and we walk you through the tradeoffs before ordering anything.
Our recommendation depends on how you use the rig - full-timing in cold climates calls for different specs than seasonal camping - not on brand preference. All standard RV water heaters share the same LP and 120V connections and fit the same cutout dimensions, so a brand swap rarely requires modifications. The one exception is venting: some units run direct-vent rather than combustion-air-from-the-bay, and if your current setup isn't compatible, we account for that in the quote before we start.
What warranty do I get after you repair my plumbing?
All labor we perform carries a 90-day workmanship warranty - if something we touched fails because of how it was installed or fitted, we come back and make it right at no charge. Parts carry their own manufacturer warranties, which typically run one to two years depending on the component and brand.
For Dometic components, we register the part in your name at time of install and leave you the documentation, so the coverage follows you and your rig, not us. We also photograph and log every repair with part numbers and dates, which matters if you ever need to file a warranty claim or sell the rig. If a part fails within the manufacturer window but outside our 90-day labor window, we coordinate the warranty replacement and charge only for the return labor, not the part.
Can you work on my RV while I'm parked in a campground or on the road?
We work wherever your rig is parked - campgrounds, RV parks, driveways, storage lots, or roadside pull-offs with safe vehicle access. When we arrive, we assess the problem on-site, pull what we need from the truck, do the repair, and pressure-test or function-test before we leave so you know the fix held.
You don't have to relocate the rig or find a shop with an open bay. For plumbing jobs specifically, we'll use the campground water hookup or an onboard tank fill to run a live pressure test once the repair is done. The main limitation is access - if a repair requires dropping a slide room or opening a belly pan in a space too tight to maneuver, we'll tell you upfront and find a workable spot nearby.
My black tank sensor is stuck full even after pump-out. Is it worth fixing?
Yes, it is worth fixing, and the sensor itself is usually not the problem. Most stuck "full" readings come from waste buildup coating the probe tips inside the tank wall, not a failed sensor.
Before replacing anything, we flush the tank with a wand and a few cycles of clean water to clear the probe faces - that alone resolves the issue about half the time. If the probes are genuinely corroded or cracked, sensor replacement runs $200-$350 and takes about 30 minutes once the tank is clear. The reason to handle it early is that a stuck full reading makes it easy to miss a real overflow condition or a slow drain caused by a partially closed knife valve, both of which turn into much bigger repairs if you let them go.
Are you RVIA certified and will my manufacturer honor warranty work you do?
Many of our techs hold RVIA and RVDA certifications, and the rest bring years of hands-on RV repair experience. On every job we use OEM-equivalent or OEM parts, document work with part numbers and serial numbers, and register components in your name - all of which matters when you need a paper trail for a warranty claim.
For component warranties (water pump, water heater, pressure regulator), the claim runs through the manufacturer, not the RV builder, so our repair work doesn't affect your ability to file. Where it gets more nuanced is the coach warranty from your RV manufacturer - if your rig is still under a full factory warranty, ask us before we open anything, because some manufacturers require dealer-authorized labor for covered systems. We'll tell you honestly whether it makes more sense for us to do the job or route you through a dealer for that specific line item.
