Suburban NT, Atwood Hydro Flame, and Dometic furnace ignition boards, sail switches, limit switches, blower motors, flame sensors, and gas valve service. Metered diagnosis at your site, OEM-spec parts on the truck. Flat-rate quoted by phone before we dispatch.
About 75% of furnace calls finish as a single-component swap - a failed ignition control board, a stuck sail switch, or a corroded flame sensor. RV furnaces are simple, sealed-combustion gas appliances bolted into a coach that vibrates, sits unused for months, and cycles between humid Florida summers and sub-freezing Idaho winters.
The result is predictable: sail switches that gum up while the rig sat through hurricane season, ignition boards that fry from a marginal 12V source, and blower motors that develop bearing slop after 8-10 years. We carry Suburban and Atwood ignition boards, sail switches, limit switches, flame sensors, and the most common Dometic blower motors on every truck so most calls finish in one visit.
Four patterns cover almost every furnace call we run. If your unit is doing one of these, the diagnosis is usually quick:
Thermostat calls for heat, blower spins up, you hear a click - then nothing. Locks out after 30-60 seconds. Almost always a sail switch that won't make contact, a corroded flame sensor, or a failed ignition board. $185-$385 fix on most Suburban NT and Atwood units.
Burner ignites cleanly, you feel heat for 20-30 seconds, then the flame cuts and the blower keeps running. Classic flame-rectification failure - a dirty or cracked flame sensor not proving flame to the board. Clean or replace - $135-$245.
Furnace lights, but warm air barely moves through the registers. Tired blower motor with worn bearings or a packed squirrel cage. Could also be a collapsed duct boot. $285-$485 motor swap.
Furnace runs 5-10 minutes, then shuts on a high-limit trip and won't restart for 10-20 minutes. Limit switch is opening because airflow is restricted - cold-air return blocked, blower wheel dirty, or duct boot collapsed. Test, clean, replace as needed.



Every call starts with a 15-minute diagnostic sequence. We pull the access panel, check 12V supply at the board under load, meter the sail switch and limit switch in their actual operating positions (not just resting), inspect the flame sensor for soot or oxidation, and confirm gas pressure at the burner orifice. From there it's either a single-part swap, a clean-and-test, or a board replacement.
For ignition board replacements, the sequence is: power off at the 12V breaker, photograph the existing wiring, pull the old board, transfer connections to the new OEM-spec replacement, restore power, run five consecutive ignition cycles to verify the sail switch holds and the flame sensor reads stable, then check exhaust draft for proper combustion air flow. We finish with a CO sniff at the registers as a safety check.
| Symptom | Repair Likely | Replace Likely |
|---|---|---|
| Blower runs, no ignition | Sail switch / board / flame sensor - $185-$385 | If gas valve has failed |
| Lights then drops flame | Flame sensor clean / swap - $135-$245 | Almost never |
| Weak airflow | Blower motor + clean - $285-$485 | If chassis is corroded |
| Cycles on high-limit | Clean blower wheel + duct - $185-$285 | If heat exchanger is cracked |
| No 12V at thermostat | Wiring / fuse - $145-$225 | N/A |
| Heat exchanger crack | Never - safety risk | Full replacement - $1,250-$1,950 |
| Rusted-through case | Never - airflow integrity gone | Full replacement - $1,250-$1,950 |
Flat-rate, written quote at your site before any work starts. No hourly creep, no diagnostic surcharge.
| Service | Parts / Brand | On-Site Time | Flat-Rate Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ignition board replacement | Suburban NT / Atwood Hydro Flame OEM | 1.5-2.5 hours | $285 - $485 |
| Sail switch repair / replace | OEM Suburban / Atwood | 1 hour | $185 - $285 |
| Limit switch test + replace | OEM | 1 hour | $165 - $245 |
| Flame sensor clean | OEM rod | 45 min | $135 flat |
| Blower motor replacement | OEM Suburban / Atwood / Dometic | 2-3 hours | $385 - $585 |
| Gas valve replacement | OEM Suburban / Atwood | 1.5-2 hours | $345 - $545 |
| Burner orifice clean & tune | OEM brass orifice | 1 hour | $145 flat |
| Full annual service | Clean, test, ignition cycle x5 | 1.5 hours | $185 flat |
| Full furnace replacement | Suburban NT-30SP / Atwood AFMD | 4-6 hours | $1,250 - $1,950 |
A1 RV Repair quotes a phone range before scheduling, then writes you an exact quote at your site before turning a wrench. No hourly creep, no after-the-fact "while we were in there," no diagnostic surcharge.
We carry parts for and service every major RV furnace brand. Most rigs we see run Suburban or Atwood (now Dometic) - the differences in diagnosis are small but matter for parts ordering.
A1 backs every furnace repair with a 90-day workmanship warranty. If a board or motor we installed fails inside that window, we replace it free including the trip charge. Parts carry separate manufacturer warranties (Suburban and Dometic typically run 1 year on electronic components, 2 years on the unit body).
We register part serial numbers in your name at the time of install. The 90-day window does not cover damage from a separate failure - if a weak coach battery is causing repeat board failures, we diagnose that before the third board goes in. Cracked heat exchangers are never something we repair; they are a CO safety issue and require unit replacement.
Nationwide mobile coverage from a network of certified A1 RV Repair technicians, with same-day response in our core metros. Click any city for local response times and to book online.
For most furnace calls in our core service areas in our covered metros, same-day repair is realistic - we carry common Atwood and Suburban furnace parts on the truck, so a failed igniter, bad sail switch, or clogged burner orifice usually gets resolved in one visit. When you call, we'll ask a few questions about the symptom (no ignition, fan runs but no heat, cycling on and off) so we can load the right parts before we roll.
Emergency furnace calls get priority scheduling over routine work. Outside our our covered metros coverage zones, we dispatch through our nationwide certified-tech partner network - availability and timing will depend on your location, and we'll give you an honest estimate when you call.
The easiest way to separate these two is to listen closely when you call for heat. If you hear the blower spin up, then a click or series of clicks, but the burner never lights and the furnace shuts back down on a lockout, the igniter or the sail switch is the likely culprit - not the motor.
If you hear nothing but a hum or a sluggish startup followed by weak airflow, the blower motor or its run capacitor is struggling. A failed capacitor is the more common and cheaper fix; a seized motor means a full motor swap. We carry both parts on the truck for most Atwood and Suburban furnace models, so if the diagnosis points clearly to one component, we're usually replacing it the same visit rather than ordering and returning.
Most furnace calls we get end up being a single component - a failed igniter, a seized blower motor, or a capacitor that's lost capacity. Before we even talk about replacement, we run through the full diagnostic sequence: control board function, gas valve operation, sail switch, blower output, and a combustion test to check the heat exchanger for cracks.
That process takes about an hour on-site and tells us exactly what failed and why. Full replacement only makes sense when the heat exchanger is cracked (a carbon monoxide risk we take seriously) or when the burner assembly has corroded past the point of safe operation - both of which are uncommon in rigs under 20 years old. If it's a single part, you're looking at a fraction of $2,200.
Our direct mobile service runs in our covered metros. If you're in Arizona, Colorado, or anywhere else outside those areas, we dispatch through our nationwide certified-tech partner network - independent shops and mobile techs we've vetted for RV-specific work.
When you reach out, we'll ask for your location, a description of what the furnace is doing (or not doing), and your rig type, then match you with the right tech in your area. Many of our network techs hold RVIA and RVDA certifications, and the rest bring years of hands-on RV repair experience. Furnace issues that leave you without heat - especially in colder climates - are something we treat as urgent, so we work to get you a connection quickly rather than leaving you to search on your own.
We warranty our labor and installation for 90 days - that covers the quality of the work itself, including any connections, mounts, ducting ties, or gas line fittings we touched during the repair or replacement. The furnace manufacturer handles the unit warranty separately, typically one to three years depending on the brand and model - Dometic and Coleman-Mach both publish their coverage terms in the documentation that ships with the unit, and we make sure you leave with that paperwork.
If the unit itself fails within the manufacturer window for a covered reason, we can help you document the failure and work through the warranty claim process. What we won't do is charge you again for labor if a defect in our own installation caused the problem - that falls on us, not you.
A clicking furnace with a visible igniter that looks intact usually comes down to one of three things: the gas circuit, the DC power supply, or the control board's capacitor. We start by measuring 12-volt draw at the board under load - furnace motors pull hard at startup, and if the coach battery is weak or a connection is corroded, the board browns out before the gas solenoid ever opens.
If DC power checks out, we test the solenoid directly; a solenoid that won't energize means no gas reaches the burner regardless of how good the igniter looks. A dead or weak capacitor is the third path - it lets the blower spin but starves the ignition circuit mid-cycle, which explains the clicking with no flame. We run all three diagnostics in a single visit and typically resolve the issue for $400-500, though a failed control board rather than just a capacitor will push that number higher, and we'll tell you before swapping anything out.
Yes, cross-brand swaps between Dometic and Coleman-Mach furnaces work in most coaches because both follow standard RV mounting dimensions and use the same 12V DC control wiring and LP supply connections. We verify the BTU rating matches your rig's heat load before ordering, since dropping from a 35,000 BTU unit to a 30,000 BTU unit can leave slide-outs and rear bedrooms cold on a hard freeze night.
On install day we pull the old unit, inspect the combustion air and exhaust ducting for cracks or debris, seat the new furnace, reconnect LP and 12V, then run a full heat cycle and CO check before we close up the bay. New unit runs $1,200-$1,600 plus $400-$600 for labor and testing. If the existing ductwork shows heat tape damage or a cracked sail switch, we call you before adding any work.
Call us right away - cold-weather furnace failures are at the top of our emergency queue. While you wait, close off any slide-outs you can, hang a blanket over the cab divider if you're in a motorhome, and run a small propane or electric space heater if you have one safely available.
In our core our covered metros service areas, we target a 2-4 hour emergency response. If you're outside those areas, we can dispatch through our nationwide certified-tech partner network, though response time depends on partner availability in your location - roadside assistance or the nearest RV dealer is a parallel call worth making. When you reach us, have your chassis make, model year, furnace brand, and the fault behavior ready - whether it's a no-ignition click, a blower-only situation, or a complete no-power condition narrows the diagnosis before we even arrive.
Same flat-rate pricing in every city. Same RVIA-certified mobile crew. Same parts-on-truck approach so most calls finish in one visit.
Often booked together with this repair. Same crew, same flat-rate, same on-site visit.