Liquid Rubber and Henry RV Roof Coating recoats over EPDM and TPO membrane to handle widespread UV crazing without ripping the roof off. Includes Dicor 501LSW seam reseal, vent and AC gasket reseal, and full perimeter inspection. Mobile, on-site, flat-rate quoted by phone.
Catch roof failure early by looking for chalking, cracking, or separation at seams. EPDM (rubber) and TPO (thermoplastic) roofs don't age quietly - they show warning signs 6-12 months before water gets into your walls. Walk the roof in dry weather.
Look for white powder coating (chalking), gaps between Dicor lap sealant and seams, loose vent or AC gaskets, and any soft or spongy spots in the membrane. A Jayco or Forest River RV with 7+ years of UV exposure almost always has at least two problem areas. We inspect 40-50 roofs per month across our nationwide network - the ones we catch early save owners $3,000-$8,000 in laminate and wall repair.
Most owners wait until they see water stains on interior ceilings or smell mold - by then damage is behind the walls. A 2015 Winnebago Navajo we serviced last month had hidden water in the starboard bedroom wall because the AC unit gasket failed silently.
Homeowner missed it until the laminate was soft. We pulled the AC, resealed the opening with Dicor, and coated the whole roof. Had he called at the first sign of gasket shrinkage, the job would have been $200 cheaper and way less stress.
Early-warning roof signs:





Four conditions point toward a recoat rather than chasing individual leaks. If your roof shows two or more of these, the recoat math beats the patch math every time.
White powdery residue that comes off on your hand when you wipe the roof. UV has degraded the membrane surface across most of the roof, not just one spot. Recoat restores UV protection.
Three or more lap joints showing cracks, lifts, or chalk. Spot reseals on each one cost more and last less than stripping all seams and laying fresh Dicor under a recoat layer.
Surface looks like cracked windshield from a distance but no holes through to decking. This is exactly what Liquid Rubber and Henry recoats are designed to bridge.
The classic preventive case. EPDM at year 6-8, TPO at year 8-10. A recoat now buys you another 7-10 years; waiting until you have leaks turns this into a $4,000-plus interior repair job.
We strip, inspect, reseal, and coat your entire roof membrane in one service. Step one is getting up there and documenting what we see - photos go to you before we start. We clean the membrane top to bottom with TSP and a soft scrub brush, rinse, and let dry.
We strip cracked Dicor lap sealant from every seam and lay fresh Dicor 501LSW. We pull or reseal vent flanges, AC gaskets, antenna mounts, and skylight perimeters.
Then we apply Liquid Rubber or Henry RV Roof Coating in two coats with proper dry time between, watching for low spots that need a third pass. Final inspection includes a water spray test on every penetration before we leave.
Full recoats run $1,950 - $3,450 depending on roof size, damage scope, and membrane type. A 28-foot rig with clean seams and no patches starts around $1,950. A 40-foot with seam separation, vent failures, and AC gasket shrinkage runs to the upper end.
Tankless coatings on TPO need a TPO-specific primer and run slightly higher than the equivalent EPDM job. Pricing includes Dicor seam reseal, vent and AC gasket replacement, two coats of Liquid Rubber or Henry, and the water-test sign-off.
| Service | Parts / Brand | On-Site Time | Flat-Rate Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full recoat (28-30 ft EPDM) | Liquid Rubber / Henry RV | 6-8 hours | $1,950 - $2,650 |
| Full recoat (32-40 ft EPDM) | Liquid Rubber / Henry RV | 8-10 hours | $2,450 - $3,450 |
| Full recoat (TPO + primer) | Brite-Ply primer / Liquid Rubber | 8-10 hours | $2,650 - $3,650 |
| Spot recoat (under 100 sq ft) | Liquid Rubber | 2-3 hours | $685 - $985 |
| Dicor seam reseal (full strip) | Dicor 501LSW / 551 | 4-6 hours | $785 - $1,250 |
| EPDM patch + recoat over | Alpha Systems EPDM | 3-5 hours | $485 - $885 |
| AC gasket + perimeter reseal | Dometic / Coleman-Mach OEM | 1-2 hours | $245 - $385 |
Warning signs we look for during prep:
We use Dicor 401UVR lap sealant and Dicor roof coating because they work and match what OEMs specify. Dicor is the industry standard - Forest River, Jayco, Winnebago, and Tiffin all recommend it. We don't cheap out on generic caulk or off-brand membrane coatings.
For EPDM patching, we use EPDM-specific patch material (not TPO patches on EPDM roofs - they fail). For TPO roofs, we use TPO-compatible sealant and patches because different membranes need different chemistry.
We carry inventory in both local hubs in our covered metros, so you don't wait for parts. We also stock Lippert and HWH gaskets for vent openings, and Shurflo vent housings if a vent flange is damaged beyond sealing. Every job gets documented with photos and product names on the invoice.
A Keystone Cougar owner had a mobile RV tech apply generic silicone caulk to his EPDM seams - within 4 months it cracked and peeled. Silicone doesn't bond to rubber.
We stripped it, resealed with proper Dicor, and coated. That job cost more because we had to undo the bad work first. Using the right product from day one matters.
Materials we use and why:
Full recoat takes 6 - 10 hours on-site depending on roof size and damage. A 28-foot rig with clean seams and no patches typically wraps in 6-8 hours; a 40-foot with seam separation, multiple vent reseals, and an AC gasket swap stretches to 8-10 hours plus dry time between coats. We're mobile, so the work happens at your driveway, campground, or storage lot.
Florida summer heat actually helps cure time on Liquid Rubber; Idaho cooler weather extends each coat's set time by an hour or two. We schedule recoats on dry-forecast days only.
All roof coating work carries a 90-day workmanship warranty. If our sealant or coating fails due to application error within 90 days, we redo it free. Dicor products themselves carry manufacturer warranties of 10+ years, but that covers product defect, not weather or UV damage over time.
We warrant that we applied sealant at the right width, used the right products for your membrane type, and sealed all penetrations correctly. What we don't cover: additional UV damage if you park under trees, impact damage from branches or hail, or seams that fail again at 8 years because membranes age.
A recoat lasts 5-7 years on average before the next coat becomes necessary. If you're moving every month in desert heat, expect the shorter end. If you're stationary or covered, you'll stretch it.
A Winnebago owner in Vero Beach called 6 weeks after our service with a seam opening again - but it was a section we specifically noted as having delamination underneath. We'd warned him the membrane itself was failing, not just the sealant.
He chose to coat anyway. That's a membrane issue, not our workmanship. We're straight about what coating fixes and what it doesn't.
Warranty details:
Nationwide mobile coverage from a network of certified A1 RV Repair technicians, with same-day response in our core metros. Click any city for local response times and to book online.
Coating stops future water entry, but it can't reverse damage that's already behind the surface. If water has reached the laminate or wall framing, the wood is either wet, soft, or already separating from the skin - and sealing over the entry point just traps moisture inside.
When we show up to quote a coating job and find soft spots near the walls or bubbling on the interior panels, we stop and run a moisture meter across the suspect areas before quoting anything. If readings come back elevated, delamination or framing repair becomes its own scope, quoted separately. Coating can still make sense afterward to protect the repaired area, but the sequence matters - you fix the structure first, then seal the surface.
In the Treasure Valley - Boise, Meridian, Nampa, Caldwell, Eagle, and Star - we target a 2-4 hour emergency response for an active roof leak. Rural counties outside that core area take longer depending on how far we're dispatching, so call and describe the situation and we'll give you a realistic ETA before you commit.
While you wait, slow the damage: lay towels inside over anything electrical, slide a tarp over the roof if you can do it safely, and note where the water is entering versus where it's dripping inside - those two points are rarely directly above each other, and that information helps us narrow the source faster once we're on-site. We'll quote flat-rate by phone based on what you describe, so there are no surprises when the truck arrives.
We stock and apply Dicor 401UVR sealant and Dicor coatings because they meet OEM specifications for the major manufacturers, including Forest River and Jayco builds. Before we open anything, we confirm whether your roof is EPDM or TPO - those membranes are not interchangeable, and using the wrong primer or coating on either one causes adhesion failure within a season.
EPDM gets a water-based lap sealant and compatible coating; TPO gets a thermoplastic-compatible product line. Every product that goes on your rig is listed by name and part number on your invoice, so you have documentation if a warranty question comes up later. If we find the existing membrane has shrunk, cracked through, or delaminated from the decking, we'll walk you through that before applying any coating - coating over a failed membrane only delays the water intrusion, it doesn't stop it.
Coating works on both TPO and EPDM, but the products are not interchangeable - using an EPDM-based coating on a TPO membrane, or vice versa, will cause adhesion failure within one season and can actually trap moisture under the coating instead of sealing it out. We identify your membrane type before we open a single tube or bucket, either by checking the manufacturer label in the front cap area or by a simple solvent test on an inconspicuous corner if the label is missing.
TPO gets a TPO-compatible acrylic or urethane coating; EPDM gets a liquid rubber or EPDM-specific product. If we find you have a hybrid situation - a patched roof where someone already put the wrong membrane over part of it - we address the incompatible section first before coating over it, otherwise the new coating fails at every patch seam.
Recoating an already-coated roof is a simpler job than the original application, which is why the cost runs lower if the membrane underneath is still in good shape. We start by inspecting the existing coating for delamination, bubbling, or spots where water has gotten under the film, then strip or scuff the surface down to a bondable layer.
If the underlying EPDM or TPO is intact, we reseal any lap joints or vent collars that have relaxed since the last coat and apply a fresh layer. Where we find new soft spots or membrane damage, we patch those before recoating - skipping that step would just trap moisture under the new coating and accelerate the rot. Budget around $600-$1,400 for a clean recoat; repairs underneath are quoted separately before we proceed.
We coat around AC units and vents without removing them - pulling an AC unit is a separate job and not part of a standard coating service. What we do instead is clean and re-bed the mounting flange with lap sealant before the coating goes on, which takes about 15 minutes per penetration and is where most rubber roof leaks actually start.
The coating then goes over and slightly up that fresh sealant, locking the transition. If you ask us to skip that step, we'll note it on the work order and complete the coating, but we won't warranty leak performance at those points - penetrations are the most common failure location on any rubber roof, and leaving old, cracked sealant under fresh coating doesn't fix the underlying problem.
Coating and replacement solve different problems. A coating - typically a liquid-applied rubber or acrylic product - bonds to your existing membrane, seals micro-cracks and pinholes, and adds a reflective UV barrier, all without disturbing the decking underneath.
That works well when the membrane itself is structurally sound. Full replacement tears off the existing membrane, inspects and repairs the decking, then lays new EPDM or TPO material from scratch.
It costs significantly more and takes longer, but it's the right call when the membrane has lifted seams, punctures that have let water reach the wood, or widespread adhesion failure. Our process is to inspect the membrane condition first - we're looking for soft spots, delamination, and active moisture in the decking.
If the membrane is intact, coating is the more cost-effective path. We only recommend replacement when the underlying structure genuinely requires it.
Yes. We work mobile only, so we bring everything the job needs - coating material, rollers, brushes, prep cleaner, and any sealant for seams and penetrations we find during inspection.
Your rig doesn't need shore power, water hookups, or sewer access. A level or near-level surface and enough clearance to set a ladder safely is all we need.
Parking lots, storage facilities, driveways, and RV parks all work fine. If your roof is on a lift, let us know the height when you call so we can confirm we have the right ladder setup for the job. We quote flat-rate by phone based on your roof size and current condition, and the quote covers all materials.
Same flat-rate pricing in every city. Same RVIA-certified mobile crew. Same parts-on-truck approach so most calls finish in one visit.
Often booked together with this repair. Same crew, same flat-rate, same on-site visit.