Emergency Rv Plumbing Repair - A1 RV Repair: mobile RV repair service, flat-rate quoted by phone, RVIA certified techs.
An RV plumbing emergency is any failure that stops you from using water, drains, or heating - no shower, no toilet flush, no fresh water supply, or visible leaks under the coach. We diagnose using pressure testing with a gauge and visual inspection of Shurflo or Dometic pump systems, Atwood water heater connections, and all visible PEX and copper runs.
Most leaks show themselves in 15-30 minutes under 50 PSI. Black tank sensor failures and gray tank backups tell us if the problem is downstream. We pull floor covers if needed. The key: we find the root cause before quoting, not after.
A Jayco owner in Tampa called us at 11 PM - no water coming out of any faucet. We arrived in 90 minutes.
Shurflo pump was running but not building pressure. Pressure test showed a pin-hole leak in the cold water line behind the refrigerator - common on older Jaycos when water lines vibrate against cabinet edges.
We replaced 8 feet of PEX line and the pump outlet check valve. Total time on-site: 2 hours.
Cost: $385. He showered that night.
Common emergency plumbing symptoms we see:





Water heater repair depends on what failed. If the burner won't ignite on an Atwood 6-gallon tank, we often clean the orifice and pilot assembly - $95-$180. If the tank is leaking from a pinhole or se
Tank age over 10 years - usually replace
Visible rust or pinhole leaks - replace
A fresh water leak chase means we pressurize your entire system to 50-60 PSI - using a hand pump or electric tester - and listen for hissing or watch for spray. We trace every PEX line from the tank through cabinets, under floors, and behin
Bad gas valve, pilot module, or thermocouple. Atwood and Suburban each have their own failure pattern.
Air leak somewhere on the suction side, or a failed diaphragm. We find it with pressure testing.
Gray and black tank failures fall into two categories: drain blockages (waste isn't flowing out) and tank damage (cracks, sensor failure, or weld corrosion). If your gray tank backs up, the issue is usually clogged drain line - hair, soap buildup, or frozen line.
We use a plumbing snake or compressed air to clear it, $85-$150. If the black tank sensor is reading full when it's empty, that's a sensor failure - $140-$220 to replace.
If the tank itself is leaking (you smell sewage or see wet spots under the coach), and the tank is plastic (Dometic or Forest River OEM), we may be able to seal small cracks with epoxy compound. Large leaks or metal tank corrosion means replacement - $600-$1200 depending on size and access. We don't replace tanks as a first move.
A Keystone owner called complaining that the black tank 'full' light stayed on even when empty. We tested the sensor resistance - it was stuck.
Replaced the sensor assembly for $185. But the same owner had a gray tank backup two months later.
We snaked it, found a sock tangled in the outlet. Cost: $110.
Then we pressure-tested the drain line and found a slow drip under the coach - hairline crack in the ABS drain line. We cut out the damaged section, spliced with a new piece and PVC couplers, and sealed with primer and cement.
Total for the repair: $165. He learned to use a drain cap and strainer from then on.
Gray and black tank warning signs:
RV water pump replacement on a Shurflo or Dometic system takes 1-2 hours start to finish. We turn off the water supply, depressurize, disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses (they usually have quick-dis
Emergency plumbing service pricing is flat-rate quoted by phone before we roll out - no surprises. Diagnostics (pressure test, leak location, system inspection): $110-$160.
Faucet or fixture replacement: $95-$250 depending on model. Pump replacement: $320-$480 installed with test.
Water heater repair: $95-$400. Water heater replacement: $450-$850.
Tank sensor replacement: $140-$220. Leak repair (PEX patching, rerouting): $150-$380.
Snake or clear blockage: $85-$150. Full tank replacement: $600-$1200.
Our 2-4 hour emergency response in our covered metros core areas covers dispatch time. If you're 50+ miles from our hub, we'll quote drive time. The 90-day workmanship warranty covers parts we install and labor - if something we fixed fails, we fix it again free.
A Forest River owner had a cold-water line rupture while traveling near Orlando. He called at 7 AM.
We dispatched a tech at 7:15 AM, arrived by 9:30 AM, diagnosed the leak (broken fitting under the sink), replaced 6 feet of line and two fittings, pressure-tested, and was done by 11:30 AM. Cost: $265.
He paid by card on-site. Three weeks later, one of the new fittings started weeping.
He called us back, we returned the same day, tightened the connection and confirmed no more leak. No charge - that's warranty coverage. That's what 15+ years and 12,000+ RVs serviced means.
Service costs (pricing varies by location and complexity):
Nationwide mobile coverage from a network of certified A1 RV Repair technicians, with same-day response in our core metros. Click any city for local response times and to book online.
In our our covered metros core service areas, we target a 2-4 hour emergency response for plumbing failures - burst lines, failed water pumps, blown fittings, anything that's putting water where it shouldn't be. We dispatch from wherever the last job ended, so actual arrival depends on where we are in the service area when you call.
Outside the core zones, we pull in a tech from our nationwide certified-tech partner network and quote drive time honestly before we commit to anything. While you wait, shutting off the water pump or closing the inlet valve at the city water port stops active damage from spreading to flooring and cabinetry - worth doing immediately if water is running somewhere it shouldn't be.
Diagnosis and repair for a water heater that won't heat typically runs $95-$180, covering a pilot cleaning, thermostat test and replacement if needed, and a sediment flush if the tank has been sitting. The range depends on which of those items the rig actually needs - a clogged pilot orifice is a 30-minute fix, while a failed thermostat or faulty ECO (energy cut-off) switch takes longer and costs more in parts.
If the unit is beyond repair or has corroded internals, a full Atwood or Dometic replacement runs $450-$850 depending on tank size and model. One edge case worth knowing: if the water heater bay shows water staining or soft framing, that points to a slow leak that existed before the heating failure, and we'll call you before adding that scope. We quote by phone after you describe the symptom and tell us the unit make and model if you can find it on the access panel.
Yes. We work on all RV makes - Forest River, Jayco, Tiffin, Grand Design, Keystone, Coachmen, Thor, Winnebago, and independent builders.
On a typical Dometic swap, we pull the exterior access panel, drain the tank, disconnect the gas line and electrical, remove the old unit, and set the new one in kind before pressure-testing the lines and checking the burner ignition sequence. We stock or source Atwood, Dometic, Shurflo, and other OEM-compatible parts, so most jobs don't wait on a parts run.
Dometic replacement runs $550-$750 installed. If we open the bay and find the surrounding wood frame has softened from a slow drip, we'll call you before touching anything - that's a separate repair, and you should know the scope before we proceed.
Our workmanship warranty covers 90 days from the date of repair. If the specific fix we performed fails within that window - a fitting we sweated leaks, a valve we seated starts bypassing, a line we re-routed lets go - we come back and correct it at no charge for parts or labor.
That warranty applies to the work we did, not to adjacent failures that develop from a separate cause. Manufacturer defects in parts fall under the part maker's own warranty, which we help you navigate if a component is clearly factory-defective rather than installation-related. One distinction worth knowing: if a repair holds but a second, unrelated plumbing issue develops nearby, that's a new job - we'll diagnose it honestly and tell you exactly what we're looking at before any work starts.
Our direct mobile service covers our covered metros, but outside those areas we dispatch through a nationwide certified-tech partner network, so distance alone isn't a reason to go without help. When you call, we ask for your exact location, the nature of the problem, and whether you're in a campground or roadside - that tells us which partner is closest and whether the job fits a mobile dispatch or needs a shop visit.
For an active leak or water intrusion, we treat that as urgent regardless of where you are, because standing water inside a rig can damage flooring, subfloor, and cabinetry fast. We'll either confirm a partner dispatch or give you a straight answer if coverage is thin in your area, so you can make a decision without waiting.
No, you don't need to take your rig to a dealer for plumbing work. Many of our techs hold RVIA and RVDA certifications, and the rest bring years of hands-on RV repair experience - we come to you with the tools and parts to handle most plumbing repairs on-site.
Dealers typically run longer intake queues, charge shop overhead rates, and rarely treat a burst fitting or failed water pump as an emergency. We handle most plumbing calls same-day in our core service areas, and we work wherever your rig is sitting - a campground, a driveway, a storage lot. For straightforward repairs like line replacements, pump swaps, or fitting leaks, there's no reason to move the rig at all.
We pressurize the fresh water system to 50 PSI with the pump off, then watch the gauge for a pressure drop - if it falls, there's a leak somewhere in the lines. From there we work section by section, isolating runs from the water heater, the galley, the bath, and any outside connections until we narrow down which segment is losing pressure.
Once we have the zone, we listen for hissing and run a hand along exposed lines and fittings looking for moisture. Hidden leaks behind cabinetry often show up as soft flooring or water stains before you ever hear them, and the longer they run, the more laminate and subflooring they damage. The full diagnostic runs $110-$160 and typically resolves within 15-30 minutes - if we find the leak and can access it that same visit, most repairs happen the same day.
Usually yes. Most Shurflo 4008 and 5008 pumps mount in an accessible cabinet or compartment with quick-disconnect fittings on the inlet and outlet, so we can pull the old unit, seat the new one, and reconnect without touching a wall panel.
On-site, we shut the water supply, relieve line pressure, swap the pump, reconnect the fittings, and run a full pressure test to confirm no weeping at the joints before we close up. The whole job runs 60-90 minutes in a standard install.
If your pump is buried deep in a cabinet behind other components, add about 30 minutes for access. Cost comes in at $320-$480 installed. The one case where walls do come into play is if the original installer hard-plumbed the pump with rigid fittings instead of quick-disconnects - we carry adapters for most configurations, but occasionally a short section of line needs rerouting.
Same flat-rate pricing in every city. Same RVIA-certified mobile crew. Same parts-on-truck approach so most calls finish in one visit.
Often booked together with this repair. Same crew, same flat-rate, same on-site visit.