Pipe Repair - A1 RV Repair

How much does it cost to pressure test my RV water system?

A pressure test runs $95-$145 flat rate and covers a 10-minute hold at 40-60 PSI across the full system, a visual walk of all accessible lines and fittings while it's pressurized, and a written diagnosis of anything we find. Holding pressure for a full 10 minutes matters because small pin leaks in PEX connections or push-fit fittings won't show themselves in the first minute or two - they need sustained load to weep.

We check both hot and cold sides, including the bypass valves, since a slow bleed on one side can mask a separate fault on the other. If we find a leak and repair it the same visit, the test fee rolls into the repair quote rather than stacking on top. The one edge case: if a leak is inside a wall cavity and requires panel removal to reach, that's quoted separately before we cut anything.

Can you come to my RV in Idaho if I have a frozen water line?

Yes - we cover the Treasure Valley in Idaho and respond to emergency frozen line calls in the area. When we arrive, the first step is locating the freeze point, which is usually a section of exposed pipe near an exterior wall, a wheel well, or an uninsulated underbelly panel.

We use a heat gun or pipe-warming tape to thaw the line gradually rather than applying direct high heat, which can crack PVC or split a fitting. Once flow is restored, we inspect the full run for micro-fractures caused by ice expansion - those often show up as hairline cracks that won't leak until the line pressurizes again.

If a section has already split, we carry pipe stock and fittings on the truck to repair or replace it the same visit. Outside our Idaho service area, we dispatch through our nationwide certified-tech partner network.

Do you replace Atwood water heaters, or just repair them?

We replace Atwood water heaters rather than repair them in most cases - once an Atwood tank starts leaking or the burner assembly fails, a swap is almost always the more reliable and cost-effective call. Swap-out costs $380-$550 depending on heater size and fuel type (gas-only, electric-only, or combo units run at different price points).

On-site, we pull the old unit, inspect the mounting bay for any water damage to the surrounding wood frame, install the replacement, reconnect all gas or electric lines, flush the system to clear any sediment, and pressure-test before we pack up. The job comes with a 90-day labor warranty. If we find rot in the bay during teardown, we'll call you before continuing so there are no surprises on the invoice.

Will you warranty a pipe repair if it fails two months later?

Yes - we back every pipe repair with a 90-day workmanship warranty on the specific fittings, connections, and sections we touched. If a compression fitting we re-seated starts weeping in month two, we come back and redo it at no charge.

What the warranty covers is our labor and the integrity of our work - not freeze damage, not a new crack that opened elsewhere in the line, and not a fitting that failed because a water pump pressure spike pushed it past spec. When you call us back on a warranty job, we trace the leak to its source before assuming it's the same repair; sometimes it's an adjacent fitting that was already marginal and finally let go, which we treat as a new job and quote accordingly.

What's the difference between your mobile service and taking my RV to a dealer?

The most practical difference is location - we drive to your driveway, campsite, or storage lot, so you're not towing or driving a rig that may have a compromised water system. Dealers typically work on a shop intake queue, which means drop-off, a diagnostic fee, and days or weeks before a tech touches your pipe.

We quote flat-rate by phone before we dispatch, so you know the number before we arrive. Dealer billing is usually hourly with parts markup on top, and the estimate often shifts after teardown. We document the repair with photos at each stage - before, during, and after - so you have a clear record of what was found and what was done, which matters for warranty claims or if the issue comes up again down the road.

Can you repair a gray tank fitting leak, or do I need a full tank replacement?

Most gray tank fitting leaks are repairs, not replacements. When we get to the rig, we drain the tank completely, pull the leaking fitting, clean the seating surface, and reseat or replace the fitting with fresh plumber's putty or ABS cement depending on the fitting type.

Once it's set, we pressure-test the repair before buttoning everything back up. That typically runs $150-$300.

Full tank replacement only comes into play if the tank wall itself is cracked, delaminated, or corroded around a wide area - we see that occasionally on older rigs that have taken a road strike or sat with standing wastewater for years, but it's genuinely rare. If we find wall damage during the inspection, we'll show you exactly what we're looking at before recommending a replacement.

Do you stock Shurflo pump parts and Dometic faucet cartridges?

Yes - our trucks stock the most-called-for Shurflo pump components (inlet and outlet check valves, strainer screens, pressure switches, and diaphragm kits) along with the Dometic faucet cartridges we pull most often on coach and galley faucets. That on-truck inventory covers the majority of pump and faucet calls without a second visit.

If your rig has an older or less common configuration - say, an unusual single-handle cartridge or a Shurflo model that takes a non-standard diaphragm kit - we identify the exact part number on-site, source it same day, and schedule the return visit as soon as it arrives. You pay straight parts cost plus labor, no dealer markup layered on top. If the pump itself is beyond a parts fix, we'll walk you through replacement options before ordering anything.

How do I know if my RV water heater needs replacement or just a repair?

Age is the first filter - if your water heater is past 12 years and failing to heat, the tank lining, anode rod, and burner assembly are all near end-of-life together, so replacement usually beats chasing individual parts. On a newer unit, the failure is more likely a single component: an igniter module that won't spark, a thermostat that's drifted out of calibration, a faulty ECO (high-limit) switch, or a corroded electrode.

We diagnose free during the service call - we pull the access panel, test the igniter circuit, check gas pressure at the valve, and measure thermostat continuity before we give you a number. If repair is the right call, we tell you that. If the tank itself is pitted or the flue is damaged, we'll show you and explain why replacement makes more sense long-term.