Emergency RV Electrical Repair

How much does it actually cost to replace my RV's converter?

A WFCO 60-amp or Progressive Dynamics converter runs $1,200-$1,800 installed, and that price covers the unit, all mounting hardware, wire terminations, and a load test once the converter is seated and connected. The variance comes from your rig's existing wiring condition - if previous work left undersized wire runs or improper fusing, we bring those up to spec as part of the job rather than hang a new converter on a bad foundation.

We quote flat-rate by phone after a few questions about your coach layout and amp draw needs, so the number we give you is the number on the invoice. A budget converter might save you a few hundred dollars upfront, but they tend to fail within two years and often take batteries with them when they go - the replacement cost ends up higher than doing it right the first time.

Can you install a lithium battery upgrade at my campground?

Yes, we install lithium battery systems on-site at campgrounds, driveways, and storage lots - no shop required. A Battle Born 100Ah lithium setup with an integrated BMS runs $3,500-$5,200 installed, depending on how many batteries you're adding and what your existing wiring can handle.

The job typically takes 4-5 hours and covers battery mounting, cable sizing and routing, breaker upgrades, and charger pairing to make sure your converter or inverter-charger is programmed for lithium's charge profile rather than a flooded or AGM curve. That last step matters - feeding lithium cells the wrong charge voltage shortens their lifespan significantly. If your existing converter isn't lithium-compatible, we'll tell you before we start and quote a converter swap as a separate line item.

How fast will you get to me if my RV has no power?

In our core service areas in our covered metros, we target a 2-4 hour response for a no-power emergency. When you call, we ask a few quick questions - shore power or battery loss, any tripped breakers, whether slide-outs or the converter are affected - so the tech shows up with the right diagnostic gear and the most likely parts already on the truck.

That pre-call triage cuts down on second trips. On-site, we start with the shore power inlet and main breaker panel before moving to the converter, inverter, and 12V distribution side.

Most no-power calls resolve same day - a failed converter, a tripped GFCI hidden in an unexpected location, or a corroded connection at the battery bank. If the fault turns out to be a damaged inverter or a wiring run that needs replacing, we'll scope the full repair before we start and give you a flat-rate number.

What's the difference between AGM and lithium batteries for RVs?

AGM batteries run $2,000-$3,200 for a 100Ah bank, are heavier, and handle a typical weekend campground trip without issue - they've been the RV standard for decades and nearly every rig is already wired to charge them. The tradeoff is usable capacity: you can only draw AGM down to about 50% before you risk shortening its life, so a 100Ah AGM gives you roughly 50Ah of real-world use.

Lithium (Battle Born is a common choice) costs roughly three times as much up front but delivers around 80-100% of rated capacity, charges significantly faster from solar or shore power, and typically lasts 10 or more years with proper care. If you're mostly plugged in at full-hookup sites, AGM makes financial sense.

If you're boondocking for days at a time, hauling weight matters, or you're tired of replacing batteries every few years, lithium pays back over time. We can assess your current charging system before you buy - some older converters need a firmware update or replacement to charge lithium safely.

Does my warranty cover a corroded shore power inlet?

Our 90-day labor and parts warranty covers the inlet replacement work itself - the physical swap, wiring connections, and torque checks we perform on-site. If the inlet fails again within 90 days due to our installation, we come back at no charge.

Corrosion from moisture intrusion or road exposure is generally considered wear rather than a manufacturer defect, so it typically falls outside chassis builder coverage. That said, if the inlet housing cracked, the locking collar failed prematurely, or there's a clear material defect, the chassis builder may cover parts under their warranty, and we'll document the failure and help you file that claim. When we replace a corroded inlet, we also inspect the surrounding wiring for heat damage or oxidation - corrosion at the inlet face often means the conductors behind it need attention too.

Why shouldn't I just take this to a dealer?

Dealers typically schedule two to four weeks out, require you to drop off the rig, and charge shop rates that include overhead you're not benefiting from. A mobile tech comes to where your rig is parked, whether that's your driveway, a campground, or a storage lot, so you're not losing use of your home-on-wheels while it sits in a lot waiting for a bay to open.

We quote flat-rate by phone before we roll, so you know what you're paying before anyone touches a wire. Many of our techs hold RVIA and RVDA certifications, and the rest bring years of hands-on RV repair experience - the diagnostic and repair work is the same caliber, just delivered at your site on a faster timeline. For electrical faults especially, waiting weeks can turn a tripped breaker or a failed converter into a dead battery bank or water damage from a malfunctioning pump.

Can you install an inverter in a Forest River RV?

Yes, we install inverters in Forest River rigs regularly - Fifth Wheels, travel trailers, Class C motorhomes, the full lineup. We carry 2,000-3,000W Victron and Meanwell units on the truck and size the inverter to your actual load before we pull a single wire.

The battery bank is where most DIY installs fall apart: an undersized bank can't sustain the draw and either trips the inverter or damages the batteries within a few charge cycles. We calculate your amp-hour needs, check your existing bank, and tell you upfront if you need additional batteries before we start. Total cost runs $800-$1,400 for the inverter install, with battery upgrades quoted separately once we see what you're working with.

What do you charge for a full electrical diagnostic?

Diagnostics run $150-$300 depending on the size of your rig and how many systems we need to trace. On-site, we work through a set sequence: shore power inlet and 30/50-amp pedestal connections first, then the breaker panel and transfer switch, then the converter or inverter output, then DC distribution and battery state-of-charge under load.

That order matters because a loose shore power connection can mimic a dead converter, and a weak battery bank can look like a bad inverter - you fix the wrong thing if you don't work upstream to downstream. The full sweep takes 45 minutes to two hours. Once we have a clear picture, we quote the repair flat-rate before touching anything, so you know the total cost before we start.