Why does my RV smell like propane, and is it dangerous?
That rotten-egg smell is a tracer chemical added to propane - it means gas is leaking somewhere in your system. This isn't a nuisance; it's a fire and asphyxiation risk. A pinhole leak in an Atwood or Dometic regulator, a loose fitting at the tank valve, or corroded copper line can spray propane into your living space without you knowing it.
We've found leaks at switchover valves, low-pressure detectors, and inside cabinet walls. The smell hits fast because propane companies mix in mercaptan specifically so you catch problems early.
One Winnebago owner ignored the smell for a week - his furnace intake was sucking fumes straight into the bedroom. Don't guess. Get a certified leak test.
A Grand Design Reflection owner pulled into an RV park near Tampa, fired up the water heater, and smelled gas immediately. The park ranger told him to shut it down and evacuate.
Turns out a Schwintek slide-out mechanism had shifted the copper propane line running along the frame, and vibration had created a micro-crack. A certified leak test caught it in seconds with a soap solution - bubbles don't lie.
Without that test, he'd have been driving a mobile bomb. That's why we always test first, diagnose second.
Signs you need a leak test now:
- Rotten egg or sulfur smell near appliances or storage areas
- Propane detector alarm going off randomly
- Regulator frost or ice buildup in summer
- Hissing sound at tank valve or under coach
- Appliances won't light or keep shutting off
- Yellow/orange flame color instead of blue
- Propane tank gauge stuck on full after days of no use
How does A1's certified leak test process actually work?
We use certified pressure-decay testing and soapy-water inspection to find every leak, then document results on a dated certificate you can show insurance or RV parks. The tech arrives with a regulator pressure gauge, a hand pump for low-pressure isolation, and a bottle of propane-safe soap solution. First, we isolate the tank and apply 5 PSI of pressure to the regulator and line side - anything over a 3 PSI drop in 10 minutes fails.
Then we coat every fitting, connection, and valve joint with soap; leaks show up as bubbles immediately. A Tiffin Allegro owner in Boise had a slow leak at his low-pressure detector that a mechanic's stethoscope missed - our soap test found it in 30 seconds. We photograph the results, note the leak location, and quote repair or replacement on the spot.
Most RV parks in Florida now require a leak test certificate before you can plug in to their propane pedestal. A Keystone Sprinter owner was denied hookup at a Crystal River park until he got certified.
He called us, we tested him that morning, found nothing wrong, printed the certificate, and he was cooking dinner by 6 PM. The whole thing took under an hour.
Parks aren't being paranoid - one propane system fire evacuated 40 units in 2019. Documentation saves you time and headaches.
What gets tested:
- Tank shut-off valve and connections
- Pressure regulator (Atwood, Dometic, Watts, or aftermarket)
- All copper and steel propane lines
- Switchover valve (if dual-tank system)
- Low-pressure detector switch
- Appliance connection fittings (furnace, water heater, stove, fridge)
- Regulator vent line and excess-flow valve

What does it cost, and do you offer flat-rate pricing over the phone?
Leak test and certification runs $185-$285 flat, depending on system size and whether we find a leak. We quote by phone - no hidden fees, no surprise charges when we show up. A single-tank system with one regulator and straightforward line routing sits at $185.
Dual-tank switchover systems or RVs with multiple appliance lines run $240-$285. If we find a leak, that's a separate diagnostic - repair or part replacement gets its own quote.
A Forest River R-Pod owner asked us about a leak test; when he heard $185, he expected $400 after repair. We found nothing wrong, printed the cert, charged him exactly what we quoted. No upsells, no "while we're here, let's..." That's not how we work.
Dealer service centers in Orlando and Coeur d'Alene quote leak tests at $350-$500 because they bundle it into longer service intervals. A Jayco owner called three dealers for pricing - all three said they'd have to schedule him 2-3 weeks out and wouldn't quote until he came in.
He called us, got a flat rate over the phone, and had his cert in his email 4 hours later. Dealers move slow because they want you inside the service bay. We move fast because that's our model.
What affects pricing:
- Single vs. dual propane tank systems
- Number of appliances on the line
- Length and routing of propane copper lines
- Condition of existing regulator (replacement costs extra)
- Distance from your nearest covered metro (travel fee applies)
- Emergency vs. standard response time
What happens if the test finds a leak - how long does repair take?
If we find a leak, we stop the test, isolate the system safely, and quote the repair or part replacement right there. Common fixes: a loose fitting ($30 part, 20 minutes); a failed regulator ($120-$180 part, 45 minutes); or a corroded copper line section ($60-$110 part, 60-90 minutes). A Coachmen Apex owner had a weeping regulator that passed his RV park's sniff test but failed our pressure test - the internal check valve was degrading.
New Watts or Dometic regulator, 40 minutes, $165 installed. If the line itself is compromised (pinhole, kink, corrosion), we replace the affected section - usually the section between tank and regulator or regulator to appliances.
Worst case we've seen: a line routed too close to an exhaust vent melted its insulation. That's a full line replacement, 2-3 hours, $220-$320 parts and labor.
A Winnebago owner in Jacksonville had a slow leak at his switchover valve - he didn't know it was leaking because the smell was faint. Our test caught it, and we quoted $145 for a new switchover assembly and labor.
He approved it on the spot, and we had him passing inspection within 90 minutes. He thanked us because he was pulling his family to a national park the next week. That leak would've gotten worse on the road.
Most common leak locations and typical repairs:
- Tank shut-off valve connection - retorque or replace fitting ($25-$50)
- Regulator inlet/outlet - new regulator ($140-$200 installed)
- Copper line junction to regulator - repair coupling or reroute ($80-$150)
- Switchover valve cartridge - replace cartridge ($100-$160)
- Low-pressure detector switch - replacement ($110-$180)
- Appliance connection at water heater or furnace - tightening or new line ($40-$120)

How long does the certification stay valid, and what does it cover?
The certification is valid for one inspection cycle - it documents that your system passed on the date tested. Most RV parks and insurance companies accept it for the current season or 12 months. It's not a warranty on the propane system itself; it's proof that you tested it and passed.
We issue a dated certificate with your RV's make, model, and VIN, a photo of the test gauge reading, and notes on any repairs we performed. A Jayco owner took his cert to his insurer; they knocked $60 off his annual premium because he'd been proactive about safety.
The cert also helps if you sell the RV - buyers want evidence the system is sound. Our 90-day workmanship warranty covers any repair we perform - if a regulator we install fails within 90 days, we replace it free.
A Thor Motorcoach owner asked if his cert was good for two years. It's not - systems change, lines degrade, and connections loosen.
We recommended annual testing, especially if he RVs hard with temperature swings. He tested with us in spring, got his cert, and three months later a loose fitting developed vibration-wear.
His next annual test caught it. That's why we call it certification, not warranty - you're proving the system was good on test day, not that it'll stay good forever.
What your certification proves and doesn't prove:
- System passed pressure and bubble test on the dated inspection
- All visible connections and fittings were sound at test time
- Regulator and line integrity met safety standards that day
- Does NOT guarantee future performance or cover hidden leaks inside walls
- Does NOT cover appliance-specific issues (furnace, stove ignition)
- Does NOT cover frame or tank structural problems
- Does NOT replace insurance or liability protections
Can you test my RV if it's at an RV park or storage lot, or do I need to bring it to you?
We come to you - that's our model. We're mobile-only, no shop, so we test RVs where they sit: RV parks, storage facilities, campgrounds, your driveway, even truck stops in between hubs. In our covered metros we respond in 2-4 hours in core service areas (Tampa, Orlando, Jacksonville, Boise, Nampa, Coeur d'Alene).
Outside core areas we're slower but still available through our nationwide partner network. You don't disconnect the RV, don't tow it, don't spend half a day driving to a dealer.
A Tiffin owner in Clearwater called at 9 AM; we tested him at 11:30 AM right in his driveway. Cert printed by noon. That's the whole point of mobile service - we adapt to your schedule and location, not the other way around.
A Grand Design owner at a busy Florida RV park didn't want to unhook his slide-outs or move his rig. We pulled up, tested everything in place, and finished in 50 minutes.
The park manager actually thanked us because we weren't tying up his pedestal hookup. Compare that to a dealer: you'd have to disconnect, drive to their service center, leave it for a day, and tow back. Our cost is half and our turnaround is a quarter of the time because we're not managing a service bay with 20 other RVs.
Where we can test your RV:
- Your driveway or home property
- RV parks and campgrounds (check with management)
- Storage lots and vehicle warehouses
- Truck stops with RV parking (I-95 corridor in Florida, I-84 in Idaho)
- Marina or lakeside dry-storage facilities
- Roadside pull-offs (for emergency response)
- Our service partner locations nationwide
